Range Cooker Installation Costs UK 2026 — What to Charge to Connect a Range Cooker

The Three Types of Range Cooker — and Why It Matters

Before you quote anything, establish what fuel the cooker uses. This single fact drives which trade is needed, which regulations apply, and most of the cost. Range cookers fall into three broad categories.

All-Electric

Everything runs off electricity — ceramic or induction hob, electric ovens and grill. There is no gas work at all, so this is purely an electrical job. The complication is load: a full-width range cooker can draw far more than a standard 60cm freestanding cooker, and many need a dedicated 32A radial circuit on a cooker switch rather than a 13A plug. If a suitable circuit already exists it's a simple connection. If it doesn't, you're running a new cable back to the consumer unit — and that is where the cost climbs.

Dual Fuel

The most popular type: a gas hob over electric ovens. These jobs need both trades — a Gas Safe engineer to connect the gas, and a competent person to handle the fixed electrical connection. Where both a gas point and a suitable cooker circuit already exist, the work is quick. Where one or both are missing, the job spans two disciplines and the price rises accordingly. Be clear with the customer about who is doing what, especially if you only hold one of the two qualifications and need to bring in a second tradesperson.

All-Gas (Natural Gas or LPG)

Hob, ovens and grill all run on gas. This is a Gas Safe job from start to finish, with only a 13A supply needed for the ignition, clock and light. The key variable is whether the cooker runs on mains natural gas or on LPG (bottled or bulk tank), because LPG almost always means a conversion — swapping injectors and adjusting the appliance — which adds time and cost. Many rural and off-grid properties fall into this category.

The Gas Side of the Job

Any work on the gas supply or a gas appliance must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer — this is a legal requirement, not a recommendation. Connecting a gas range cooker involves more than plugging in a hose, and the higher gas demand of a full-width appliance is exactly where corners get cut.

• The connection itself: domestic cookers are commonly connected with a bayonet fitting and a flexible hose, which allows the appliance to be pulled out for cleaning. Larger or fixed range cookers may need a rigid connection instead — confirm what the appliance requires before quoting.
• Checking the gas supply and pipe sizing: a range cooker draws more gas than a standard cooker. If the existing pipework is undersized for the load, you may get gas pressure drop and poor combustion. Verifying — and if necessary upsizing — the supply pipe is one of the biggest hidden cost drivers.
• Gas tightness (soundness) test: every connection must be followed by a tightness test to confirm there are no leaks. This is non-negotiable and part of every gas connection price.
• Commissioning and safety checks: checking burner operation, flame picture, flame supervision devices and ventilation before signing the job off.

The Electrical Side of the Job

Range cookers — even gas ones — usually need an electrical supply, and the dual-fuel and all-electric types need a serious one. Fixed electrical work in a kitchen falls under Part P of the Building Regulations and must be carried out by a competent person (typically a registered electrician who can self-certify, or with the work notified to building control).

• Dedicated cooker circuit: many range cookers need a dedicated 32A radial circuit run in 6mm² cable to a cooker switch (a 45A double-pole switch). A 13A plug is not adequate for a high-rated cooker.
• New circuit back to the consumer unit: where no suitable circuit exists, you're running a new cable from the consumer unit to the cooker position, adding a way (or RCBO) at the board and testing the circuit. This is the single most expensive electrical element.
• Consumer-unit capacity: if the board is full or lacks adequate RCD protection, you may need a spare way fitted or, in some cases, a board upgrade — a separate and significant cost the customer should be warned about up front.
• Certification: the new or modified circuit needs an Electrical Installation Certificate and Part P notification. Build the admin time into your price.

Removing the Old Appliance, Positioning and Anti-Tip

A range cooker install rarely starts with a clean slate. Before the new appliance goes in, the old one has to come out — and that is chargeable work.

• Disconnecting and removing the old cooker: safely capping or disconnecting the gas and electrical supplies, then physically removing the old appliance. Range cookers are heavy (often 100kg+), so this can be a two-person lift.
• Disposal: taking the old appliance away and disposing of it responsibly is an optional add-on most customers will pay for rather than handle themselves.
• Positioning and levelling: range cookers must sit level for the ovens to work correctly and for doors to seal. Adjustable feet need setting, and the gap to surrounding units must meet the manufacturer's clearances.
• Anti-tip / stability: manufacturers and safety guidance call for an anti-tip bracket or stability chain so the cooker cannot tip forward when weight is applied to an open door. Fitting this is part of a proper installation, not an extra.

LPG and Conversion Work

If the property is off the mains gas grid, the cooker will run on LPG — and almost all appliances are supplied set up for natural gas. That means a conversion: changing the injectors, adjusting the burner settings and re-checking the appliance for the different gas. Conversion kits are appliance-specific, and the work must be done by a Gas Safe engineer with the relevant LPG category on their registration.

Price LPG conversion as a clear extra on top of the connection. Beyond the kit and labour, an LPG installation may involve a check of the regulator, the bottle or bulk-tank supply and the changeover system. On a fully off-grid property, allow for the additional survey and testing time — it is not the same job as a quick mains connection.

Typical 2026 UK Price Bands

These are realistic labour bands for 2026 — they assume the appliance is already on site and exclude the cost of the cooker itself. Quote the simple jobs at the lower end and price properly for anything involving a new circuit or gas upsizing.

• Straightforward like-for-like gas connection (existing bayonet/supply, tightness test): £80–£150
• Dual fuel where both connections already exist (gas point and suitable cooker circuit in place): £150–£300
• New cooker circuit or upgraded gas supply (new 32A radial back to the board, or pipe upsizing): +£200–£600 or more
• LPG connection / conversion (injectors, adjustment, off-grid checks): extra on top, commonly £80–£200+
• Removal and disposal of old cooker: £40–£100

The spread is wide because the determining factor is almost never the appliance — it's the infrastructure behind it. A like-for-like swap and a full new-circuit install can be the same cooker in the same kitchen, separated by hundreds of pounds of cable, board work and gas pipe.

Worked Examples

Example 1 — Like-for-like gas range swap

A customer replaces an old 90cm all-gas range with a new one in the same spot. There's an existing bayonet connection and a 13A socket for the ignition. The engineer removes the old appliance, makes the new bayonet connection, positions and levels the cooker, fits the stability bracket and carries out a tightness test and commissioning. Charge £120 for the connection plus £60 for removal and disposal of the old cooker — total £180. Half a morning's work.

Example 2 — Dual fuel with a new cooker circuit

A 100cm dual-fuel range goes into a kitchen that only has a 13A spur near the old cooker — not enough for the electric ovens. A gas point exists. The electrician runs a new 32A radial in 6mm² from the consumer unit (which has a spare way) to a new 45A cooker switch, tests and certifies it, then the gas hob is connected and tightness-tested. Electrical work £420 (new circuit, switch, certification), gas connection £140 — total around £560. A full day with two trades.

Example 3 — All-gas range on LPG, rural property

An off-grid farmhouse takes a new all-gas range running on bulk LPG. The appliance arrives set for natural gas, so the Gas Safe engineer converts it — new injectors and burner adjustment — then connects to the existing LPG supply, checks the regulator and changeover, levels the cooker, fits the anti-tip and completes the tightness test. Connection and positioning £140, LPG conversion £150, removal of old appliance £70 — total £360.

What Drives the Cost Up

When two quotes for "the same cooker" come out hundreds of pounds apart, it's almost always one of these factors. Identify them at survey, not on the day.

• New circuit run and consumer-unit work: the further the cooker is from the board, and the more awkward the cable route, the more labour. A full board or missing RCD protection can turn a connection into a much bigger job.
• Gas pipe upsizing: if the existing supply is too small for the higher load, new larger-diameter pipework is needed — chargeable per metre and by access difficulty.
• Distance and access: long cable or pipe runs, lifted floors, tight kitchens and heavy two-person lifts all add time.
• Removal and disposal of the old cooker: heavy appliances and responsible disposal both cost — price them in rather than absorbing them.
• LPG conversion: kit cost plus the extra adjustment, off-grid supply checks and testing time.

Quoting Tips — What to Check Before You Price

Range cooker quotes go wrong when the engineer prices off a phone description instead of seeing the kitchen. Before you commit a number, confirm:

• Fuel type and connection: all-electric, dual fuel or all-gas — and whether it's natural gas or LPG. This sets which trades you need.
• Existing circuit: is there already a dedicated cooker circuit of adequate rating, or only a 13A spur? Check the consumer unit for a spare way and RCD protection.
• Existing gas point and pipe size: is there a bayonet/supply at the right position, and is the pipework sized for the appliance's load?
• Appliance ratings and clearances: read the manufacturer's installation manual for the gas and electrical demand and the required gaps.
• Old appliance: what's coming out, how heavy is it, and does the customer want it taken away?
• Access: cable and pipe routes, floor type, and whether it's a two-person lift.

A short written quote that separates the gas connection, the electrical work, any circuit or supply upgrade and the removal puts you ahead of competitors who just text a single figure. It shows the customer you understand the job and protects you when an "upgrade" turns out to be needed.

Compliance — Who Is Allowed to Do the Work

This is the part you cannot compromise on. All gas work must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer — connecting the appliance, checking the supply, upsizing pipework, LPG conversion and the tightness test. All fixed electrical work must be carried out by a competent person under Part P of the Building Regulations — new or modified cooker circuits, consumer-unit work and certification. If you only hold one qualification, bring in the other trade rather than working outside your registration. Customers increasingly check the Gas Safe register, and uncertified electrical work in a kitchen can fail at sale, survey or insurance.

Quick Reference: Range Cooker Installation Prices UK 2026