TV Wall Mounting Costs UK — What to Charge to Mount a TV in 2026

TV Mounting Jobs and What to Charge

There's no single price for "mounting a TV" because the work ranges from hanging a bracket the customer already owns to chasing cables into the wall and fitting a new socket. Here are the main job types with current UK price ranges.

Basic Mount — Solid Wall, Customer's Own Bracket

The customer has bought their own bracket, the wall is solid brick or block, and they're happy for the cables to hang down visibly to the existing socket. This is the quickest job: locate the fixing points, drill, plug and bolt the bracket, hang the TV, level it and plug in. On a good wall this is comfortably done in well under an hour.

• Basic mount, solid wall, own bracket, cables visible: £60–£100

Price toward the top of this range for callout-only jobs, awkward parking, or when the customer wants you to demo and tune the picture afterwards. Even on the simplest job, never quote below your minimum callout — a £60 job 40 minutes away can lose money once travel is counted.

Standard Job — Supply Bracket and Tidy Cables

Here you supply a suitable bracket and route the cables neatly into surface trunking or a cable cover painted to match the wall, so nothing trails loose. This is the most common booking and the one most customers picture when they ask for "a tidy job". Your price needs to cover the bracket cost plus the extra labour of measuring, cutting and fixing trunking.

• Supply bracket, mount, cables tidied into trunking: £100–£180

Quote the bracket as part of the package rather than itemising every cable clip — customers want a single clean number for a single clean result. Keep two or three quality fixed and tilting brackets in the van so you're not making a trip to the merchant mid-job.

Stud / Plasterboard Wall or a Larger, Heavier TV

A stud wall changes everything. You can't just plug into plasterboard and hope — the fixings must land in the timber studs, or you fit a brace or noggin between studs to carry the load. That means locating the studs accurately, and often the spacing doesn't line up with the bracket's holes, so you add a timber batten or backing board behind the plasterboard. A larger or heavier TV (55-inch and up) needs a stronger bracket and more care regardless of wall type.

• Stud wall mount (locate studs / fit noggin or batten): £120–£220
• Large or heavy TV needing a stronger bracket: £120–£220

This is where inexperienced installers come unstuck — fixing into plasterboard alone with the wrong plugs is the number one cause of TVs ending up on the floor. If the studs don't align with the bracket, a backing board spread across two studs is the safe answer and you should price the extra time in.

Concealed Cables — Cables Hidden Inside the Wall

This is the premium job and the one customers pay most for, because the result is a TV that appears to float with nothing visible at all. The work involves chasing a channel into the wall, fitting a recessed socket or low-profile back box behind the TV for the power, and running an HDMI/aerial conduit down to a second outlet plate near the floor or media unit. On a stud wall the cables can often be dropped inside the void; on a solid wall you're cutting a chase and making good afterwards.

• Cables concealed in wall, recessed socket and conduit: £200–£400+

Be clear with the customer about one thing: any new fixed mains socket is Part P notifiable work under the Building Regulations. You cannot simply spur a new mains outlet behind the TV unless you're a qualified electrician registered with a competent person scheme, or you notify building control. A common, compliant approach is to recess the existing socket or fit a flush back box and use a proper recessed mains connection plate (a permanent power lead in, fused outlet out) — but a brand-new fixed socket is best left to an electrician. Price accordingly, and either bring an electrician in or quote it as an electrician-led job.

Add-Ons and Upsells

The mount itself is often just the start. These add-ons increase the ticket and are usually easy to sell once you're already on site with the tools out.

• New aerial or satellite point: running a fresh coax to an outlet plate behind the TV — £60–£150 depending on the run.
• Additional double socket behind the TV: an electrician's job (Part P), typically £80–£180 on top, more if a new circuit is involved.
• Soundbar mount: a dedicated soundbar bracket below or above the screen — £40–£90.
• Full-motion / articulating bracket: a dearer bracket and a slightly longer fit — add £40–£120 over a fixed bracket job for the hardware and time.

Bracket Types and How to Choose

The bracket you fit affects both the look the customer gets and what you can charge. There are three families:

• Fixed / flat: holds the TV flush and close to the wall. Cheapest, slimmest, no adjustment. Ideal where the viewing position is dead ahead and the customer wants the lowest profile.
• Tilting: allows the screen to angle down, useful when the TV is mounted high — above a fireplace, for example — to reduce glare and neck strain.
• Full-motion / articulating: the arm extends and swivels so the TV can be pulled out and angled across a room. The dearest bracket and the one that puts most leverage on the wall, so fixings and wall type matter most here.

VESA sizing is the standard you check before quoting a bracket. It's the spacing of the four mounting holes on the back of the TV, given in millimetres — common patterns are 200×200, 400×400 and 600×400. The bracket must match or span the TV's VESA pattern, and you must respect the bracket's stated weight limit: a bracket rated for the TV's size and weight, not just its screen inches. Always check the TV's actual weight against the bracket and the fixings, never just the screen size.

Solid Wall vs Stud Wall Fixings

The single biggest technical decision on any TV mount is what you're fixing into — and it changes the fixings, the time and the price.

On a solid brick or block wall, you drill and use a quality through-bolt or a wall plug rated for the load — sleeve anchors or M8 fixings into sound masonry. The wall carries the weight directly, so a solid wall is the easiest and safest substrate and commands the lowest labour.

On a stud / plasterboard wall, plasterboard on its own holds almost nothing. Your options are: fix straight into the timber studs (best — locate them with a detector and bolt through), fit a noggin or brace between studs to give a fixing point, or add a timber backing board spanning two studs behind or in front of the plasterboard. Heavy-duty plasterboard fixings exist and have their place for lighter loads, but for any sizeable TV the load should be carried by timber, not by the board. Never rely on standard plasterboard plugs for a TV mount.

Whatever the wall, the professional recommendation is to put a fused spur or a socket behind the TV rather than leaving trailing leads running to a skirting-level socket. It looks cleaner, removes a trip and snag hazard, and is what customers expect from a proper installation. Just remember the Part P point above — a new fixed socket is notifiable.

What Affects the Quote

Before you give a price, run through the factors that move the number up or down. Quoting off a phone description without seeing the wall is how installers lose money.

• Wall type: solid masonry is quick and cheap; stud / plasterboard adds time for stud location, noggins or backing boards.
• TV size and weight: larger, heavier screens need stronger brackets, more fixings and often a second pair of hands.
• Cable concealment: visible trailing cables cost nothing; trunking adds a little; chasing cables into the wall is a different job entirely.
• Whether a new socket is needed: a recessed socket or fresh mains outlet brings Part P into play and usually means an electrician.
• Access and working at height: mounting high over a fireplace, on a stairwell wall, or anywhere needing a platform adds time and risk — and should add to the price.

Quick Reference: TV Wall Mounting Prices UK 2026